He himself says that he entered the professional kitchen by force. The path was not intuitive, but the result of a long process of rethinking. During his studies, he worked in various establishments in Bulgaria, but only after his experience abroad did he begin to see gastronomy as a serious profession and an opportunity for development and travel. Then he made the decision to completely retrain and enrolled in a culinary academy.
After professional experience in several European countries and the USA, including in restaurants recognized by Michelin guide, he develops his own style in the direction casual fine diningAs the owner and head chef of a contemporary bistro in Sofia, he works with local and seasonal products and builds direct relationships with producers. He explores techniques such as fermentation and minimalist plating in the context of modern Balkan cuisine and with a focus on sustainability and zero waste.
Today, Martin Nikolov is a name that stands for clear direction, prominent interests, pursuit of meaning and depth in the profession and Balkan cuisine in particular. Martin does not fit into a few words. This interview is long, but above all important, so read slowly and carefully, after a delicious dinner and with a nice glass of wine.
We will let our instructor in the leading program “French and Balkan Cuisine” speak about the mother of cuisines – French cuisine, its revolutions, the short menu on the blackboard, the modern city restaurant and the big topic – Balkan cuisine – Martin Nikolov.
Before the topic of Balkan cuisine, let's start with a little history of French bistronomy, why is it important and how did it originate and develop in France?
This is an interesting story. Through it, one can even trace how cooking reflects socio-economic and cultural processes throughout an entire era. Without claiming to provide an in-depth analysis, I would like to note a few important points.
It is believed that the Bistronomy movement emerged in the early 90s in Paris. It is more of a continuation of the iconic stage in the evolution of French cuisine known as Nouvelle Cuisine* – a pivotal moment that relaunched the French culinary school in the 60s and 70s. Led by chefs like Paul Bocuse, the new movement rejects “Escoffier’s bible”** and significantly lightens and modernizes cooking, placing the chef’s personality in the lead role for the first time and stepping on the cult “Ten Commandments Manifesto”***.
Is this the moment when a significant change occurred in the history of French cuisine, preceding the Bistronomist movement that followed?
Yes, in a similar way, the Bistronomy movement began as a reaction against the formality, elitism, high prices and rigidity of the strict protocol in classic French “haute cuisine”. Influenced by this, a number of young chefs, until now trained in luxury Michelin-starred restaurants that have become institutions, began to look for an alternative and a new model in which they could realize themselves independently and have the opportunity for more freedom and creativity.
Can we say that the idea behind it is to combine the gastronomic experience on the plate with the unpretentious atmosphere around?
Yes, the aim is to maintain a professional approach and a high level of culinary techniques, as well as a focus on working with high-quality and seasonal products, but served in an informal environment. Direct contact with the customer is important, without the strict etiquette of heavy service and white tablecloths. It was then that the short and frequently changing menu, written on the blackboard becomes iconic. It is said that this is the time of democratization of haute cuisine, and the term "Bistronomy" itself only became established after 2000.
How did these influences shape the style of professional chefs back then?
In this particular case, this new style manages to modernize once again the French school, but also inspires a new generation of chefs who focus on "terroir" (connection to the local land), place emphasis on loyalty, purity of taste and focus on a more natural and minimalist presentation. Nowadays, this philosophy is intertwined with modern trends such as zero waste, plant-based cuisine, the emergence of so-called foraging chefs (chefs who harvest wild produce themselves), as well as other global fusion influences.
Speaking of building a professional style – when and how did your personal one take shape?
It might be interesting to single out two more specific events that proved to be pivotal and very motivating. They helped me better orient myself in what I wanted to do. One was the emergence of "Open letter to the chefs of tomorrow" – a kind of ethical code for future chefs. This message really impressed me and allowed me to start looking at food and cooking as an opportunity and a tool through which you can influence and participate in changing the entire environment. This is also the time when chefs began to have a greater role and recognition in processes that are outside of running a kitchen. They were expected to acquire and develop new skills.
The other moment was when I found out about a Parisian bistro that made it into the top 10 of one of the mostthe prestigious world culinary rankings. This is Le Chateaubriand + Inaki Aizpitarte. TOThe concept of this place and this particular chef impressed me so much that it quickly became a favorite for me. clear in which direction I want to develop. In fact, I was recently able to visit him for first time.
Open the topic of the short menu on a blackboard. How does the menu change the entire vision of a place and is the desire to cook with seasonal products at the heart of this concept?
To some extent, it can be said. Already during the time of Nouvelle Cuisine, it began to be shifts the focus and imposes a cult of the product and the understanding that this is related to freshness and seasonality. But not only that. Short and seasonal menus are also a characteristic feature of the role of the chef, who knows and selects quality products. It shows his desire to cook healthily and his ability to be creative and create menus that change in sync with nature. This is precisely what requires a model in which the product is not adjusted to the recipe, but the recipe is created around the product. The one that is available here and now. That is why the menus change often, even daily.
Shorter and seasonal menus are becoming not only a symbol, but also a major economic the driving force behind the Bistronomy concept. This leads to less waste, more flexibility and creativity in sourcing and processing raw materials, but allows hyper-seasonality and creative freedom. Nowadays there are a number of small restaurants/bistros that even practice Chef's choice or Tasting Menu**** the model, which is considered the pinnacle of culinary mastery.
Are these actually modern city restaurants?
Yes, I think that these kinds of concepts are permanently imposed and continue to develop in global scale. The bistro movement quickly spread to London and New York, and later in the rest of the Western world. In the UK, a similar format is the gastropub, and in the US the concept of Bistros transformed into what they are today. we call “Casual Fine Dining”.
It does not simply replace the Bistronomy movement, but popularizes and refines it as a global response to the changing tastes of the modern consumer, who seeks quality but without unnecessary pomp.
Over time, it has become a model that shapes contemporary urban gastronomy, preserving the elements of “haute cuisine”, offering tasting menus and sommelier services with professional but friendly service, in a more informal, contemporary and economically sustainable framework. It shows that sophisticated cuisine can be accessible, social and relevant without losing its culinary depth and origin.
You mentioned terroir cuisine earlier - when and how did the desire to emphasize local produce develop in your cooking style?
Yes, I try to be guided by the vision and values we talked about above and to I apply it wherever and whenever possible. Much more effort is still required and understanding this technique so that we are not left with just empty phrases and promises.
Terroir cooking emphasizes the use of seasonal, local, artisanal and products typical of the given region. Such an approach can offer significant advantages that encompass food quality, economic efficiency, support regions and sustainable practices and contribute to a lower carbon footprint footprint and waste.
Is this attitude towards the origin of products just a matter of quality or and of creating identity?
One thing follows the other. I would say that origin is a necessary condition for creating an identity, but it can also be a guarantee of quality. The origin of a product is important, not only because it carries its specific characteristics, but also gives us traceability of quality. It connects us to the people who produce it and to the history of the place it comes from. It also creates a bond of trust and understanding that this is a valuable and important part of the narrative for building an identity.
Balkan cuisine is part of the leading culinary program in which you are a future chef-instructor. Let's talk about the specifics that characterize and distinguish it and what is important and valuable to you about the topic?
For us, the topic of Balkan cuisine is certainly very important, but not yet sufficiently researched. In fact, we are just starting to talk about it. And in this context, I think it is valuable to explain why it is important to talk about Balkan cuisine as a brand.
Two words immediately come to mind – rethinking and modernizing.
We have enough reasons to describe Balkan cuisine as a crossroads of the East and the West, formed as a result of sharing deep cultural, historical and culinary layers. It is a combination of the various influences of the Middle East and The Orient, the Mediterranean and the influence from Central Europe. It has preserved strong regional traditions and distinctive identity. Balkan cuisine is a “crossroads of tastes".
What is distinctive when we talk about its taste?
It is distinguished by an abundance of seasonal vegetables, wild mushrooms and herbs, a wide variety of spices, cereals and legumes and pulses. Dairy products are strongly represented products – brined cheese, yogurt, ayran, kefir, katyk. Baking is typical of meat over an open fire or embers, and in certain regions it is consumed mainly lamb, goat and game. We have good conditions for the development of a strong sea and river fishing. And deep traditions in home production, canning, preserving and fermentation.
In connection with everything we talked about earlier, it is important to note that Balkan cuisine still retains a strong connection to seasonality and the land, and various customs and holidays are honored and practiced, and more and more chefs are striving to transform traditional "rural" flavors into a refined culinary experience, preserving authenticity but changing the form.
However, how do we talk about Balkan cuisine, not only us as part of it, but also the countries that shape it as a whole?
The truth is that the Balkans still do not have a common gastronomic narrative and are not considered a region with a single cuisine, but rather as a place that shares similar techniques and products. The narrative is too episodic and fragmented, and the region has an exceptional potential. For this, it is necessary to build a distinctive culinary narrative that become something like a common gastronomic platform.
Where do you think the challenges lie?
The directions and challenges we face are closely related to balance between nostalgia and innovation and here I will try to outline some of them in the hope of Let's expand this conversation and include more and more stakeholders in it.
Standardization. Often the lack of basic standards, both among restaurateurs and among producers, insufficient support for good and sustainable practices, as well as the need for industries to self-organize and cooperate are some of the the main obstacles to starting this process. Building a logistics chain between the “fields and the restaurant” is a huge challenge and an example of how it is difficult for a modern restaurant to work with a small farmer if supplies are not regular or the quality varies. A manifestation of healthy product patriotism is necessary, an emphasis on local products and ingredients. Active inclusion of wild plants and herbs, as well as the return and preservation of local varieties and autochthonous breeds, and at the next stage, their transformation into an attractive and main component, emphasizing the terroir of a given region.
Next up educationAnother essential point is the training of personnel and the introduction of a more scientific and in-depth approach to the topic. Until now, there has been a lack of sufficient specialized education to teach young chefs modern techniques to apply to local products, as well as to stimulate them to interpret tradition, and not simply reproduce it or copy the French and Italian schools. This is where our role and responsibility as a culinary school in the Balkans comes in, in building an educational hub with a focus on Balkan cuisine.
More and more Balkan ingredients such as ajvar, cheese and specific spices (like colorful salt) are recognized in some restaurants around the world as healthy and "exotic" alternatives. And everyday food for the Balkans like kebabs (ćevapi), sarmi and burek, are becoming an increasingly popular street food in major American cities.
It is important to say that the flagship program "French and Balkan Cuisine" was developed in partnership with FERRANDI Paris, and specifically the Balkan part was formed with chefs from Greece, Serbia, Turkey and Bulgaria. Who are the emphases that will be placed in the training?
Of course, the main focus will be on studying classical French techniques and practices and the acquisition of the fundamental skills that future chefs need. The goal of this program is to introduce our students not only to the classical culinary tradition, but also to modern professional standards and gastronomic trends. The training will rely on solid preparation and understanding of the processes behind a given technique, as well as paying serious attention to the right personal motivation and behavior and emphasizing the development of team and leadership qualities. We will also try to outline the future prospects for each of the students. This will contribute to their easier adaptation to the professional kitchen environment in the future.
But what is most exciting for us is that our students will have the unique opportunity to enter the depths of Balkan cuisine precisely at the foot of the Balkans.
How do you see the contemporary development of Balkan cuisine in our country?
I believe that the future of Balkan cuisine lies in its popularization and transformation into recognizable tourist brand. Modern Balkan cuisine has a real potential and the necessary prerequisites to become the next exciting gastronomic scene in Europe. It can combine authenticity, healthy ingredients, and modern presentation, making it a strong candidate for the next big wave in gastronomy.
This is an ambitious and long process that can support the development of the Balkans and transform them from a region for cheap and mass tourism into a preferred culinary destination.
What do you think is important to highlight about the topic and its promotion?
It is also important to promote the health profile of Balkan cuisine. Similar to the Mediterranean diet, Balkan cuisine relies on fresh, seasonal vegetables, fermented products and increasingly higher quality meats, which responds to the growing search for functional foods by modern man. Probably among the biggest challenges, however, remain the historical disputes and exaggerated differences in the Balkans, which can be overcome through long-term regional cooperation, in the name of building a common vision and strategy for a common brand, following good models. An example is Scandinavian cuisine and its New Nordic movement, which created a new culinary identity for the Scandinavian countries.
Despite these and many other challenges, it is important to note that now is the time feels particularly suited for this, as there is a global interest in unfamiliar cuisines.
However, success will not be massive or quick. It will depend on many components and I believe that we, as a school, will contribute and help a lot to this process and the good result.
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*Nouvelle Cuisine is a culinary movement in French gastronomy that emerged in the 1960s and reached its peak in the 1970s.
**The book Le Guide Culinaire, considered the essential textbook for professional chefs
***A list of 10 basic principles that describe the new style of cooking, opposing the heavy classical cuisine
**** Instead of the customer choosing individual dishes from a menu, the chef creates an entire culinary sequence. Guests are served a series of small dishes selected by the chef to showcase different flavors, techniques, and products.
